With the addition of this dress the Wattlebird jumpsuit is now the most made pattern in my collection. With a few modifications each time, I’ve made a top, a jumpsuit and now a dress. While this block doesn’t fit me perfectly I think I’ve finally been able to get the top to a place where it’s the perfect fit for me so I’m still keen to make some more.
For this version of the wattlebird pattern I made a simple dress with a tiered gathered skirt. This is very similar to the wattle-fawn set that they sell. I also had this version as some shorter length inspo.
I bought a metre of this lovely red linen from Tessuti Fabric in my pre-uni semester fabric shop. I don’t really have time to venture out to the city during uni semester (and with the current situation I can’t anyway 🙁 ) so tend to buy a few nice pieces before uni starts so I’ve got something to sew. I didn’t have a plan for it but knew I liked wearing red and think linen is the nicest.
This presented a challenge when cutting out this dress. The length and width of the tiers were dictated by the amount of fabric I had left after cutting the top. The lower tier is made up of three panels in order to get a longer length. I had just enough at the end to cut out a scrunchie which I was very pleased with. This also meant I used all of this fabric with only very minimal waste created when I cut out the top front, everything else was carefully placed together squares.
I cut out an extra small. I do measure between small and medium but have found this pattern to be very oversized so cut smaller and found the fit to be better. This extra small is the smallest size offered in the pattern so I would maybe be inclined to make a toile to test the fit if you measured this size. (A note – I have the older version of this pattern which has only 4 sizes however I believe common stitch has since extended the size range, however I’m not sure if this is both smaller and larger.)
In both my previous versions, in size M and S, I have created vertical pleats on the top, which have helped to reduce gaping at the armholes and made the top of the bib a little bit smaller as it also gaped at the top. However in this smaller size the width of the top was perfect for me. As I still had problems with the fit of the armhole, I instead opted to create a second dart to help with the armhole fit. I find the drafted horizontal dart looks nice but doesn’t create the best fit for my body shape. I did think of cutting the binding on the bias as a solution to it flipping out in previous versions, however I didn’t have enough fabric to do this. I removed the binding and measured a dart on my body to take out the gaping fabric. This has created two radial darts on the side. It’s a kind of funky look but I don’t mind it too much as the fit is so much better on the bodice than other versions.
For the skirt I cut two rectangles. The first was 1.4 time the length of the top hem. The second was 1.7 time the hem. This was purely due to fabric restrictions and I would have liked a fuller skirt, especially for the second layer. I then gathered these at the top edge and attached to the top. The zipper was the last thing sewn in at the back as it reached into the first tier.
I made the matching scrunchie using a tutorial from the Hemming. I have straight ties instead of her rounded ones, due to the amount of fabric I had left, but rounded off the ends. The scrunchie is also only 8cm wide. This was a super cute and very simple project for using up the scraps and I’ve already made a few more with left over fabric!
I am really really happy with this dress and I think it will be a staple in my wardrobe. I’ve worn it the same way I wear my wattlebird jumpsuit (with a t-shirt or sweater underneath) so that I’m able to wear it when it’s nice and sunny but also when it is a little chillier.
Fabric – Linen from Tessuti Fabrics (link to similar)
Pattern – modified Wattlebird Jumpsuit from Common Stitch